Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Greetings

As I’ve mentioned before, greetings are a huge part of life here in Senegal. In fact, it’s probably the only thing I’ve yet mastered in Pulaar, and even then sometimes people will throw new ones at me that I don’t understand. I probably greet 50 times a day I would say at least. Some of them are especially funny when translated so I thought that I would translate a normal greeting for all of you.

1: What are you doing? (How are you?)
2: Peace Only
1: Are you well?
2: It’s fine
1: How are you doing with the tiredness?
2: Peace only/ It’s fine
1: How are you doing with the heat?
2: Peace only/it’s fine. It’s HOT!
1: Yes it’s HOT huh?
2: Every day it’s hot.
1: How is your family (literally your house?)
2: They are fine. Alhamdoulilah! How is your family?
1: In peace. How are your relatives?
2: In peace/They are fine.
1: How are your children?
2: They are in peace. Alhamdoulilah. It’s fine.What’s your name?
1: Binta Lam. What is your name?
2: Oumou Sall (for example). How is your husband/wife?
1: He/She is fine. Alhamdoulilah! Sall.
2: How are you doing with being beautiful? Lam.
1: I am not in it (‘it’ meaning being beautiful). How are you doing with the work?
2: It is fine. How are you doing with resting? Lam.
1: Peace only. Alhamdoulilah. Sall. How are you doing with the mosquitoes?
2: It’s fine/Peace only.
1: I greet your house/family! Sall. Sall. Sall.
2: They will hear you. Lam. Lam.
1: Peace only. Sall Sall.
2: Peace only. Lam. Lam.

Now that is a rough version and all the while you are holding hands with the person. There are all kinds of additions you can throw in there. Often “how are you doing” and “peace only” and “it’s fine” are just repeated over and over and inserted in a haphazard kind of way throughout the greeting. It’s kind of lovely to think of strangers greeting eachother though and repeating “Peace Only” over and over. But now imagine that being recited as fast as you possibly can and often people will just talk over one another and not even directly respond to the questions. It takes practice but luckily there are plenty of opportunities to do so.

There are also all sorts of gestures that are allowed and not allowed and different age groups and even religious sects (I think) will greet different ways. There are some men for example who are not allowed to shake women’s hands. Instead they will just clasp their hands together and nod vehemently. This also happens when people are in the middle of praying and they want you to know that they are greeting you but they are not supposed to talk or be touched during prayer.
Some men will take eachother’s hands and bring them to their foreheads repeatedly. Some will shake your hand and then touch their heart. If you are passing by a large group and you do not have time to greet everyone you can get away with just clasping your hands together and holding them up in the air to them about chest high and then touching your heart. This is actually a very respectful way of greeting and it makes you stand out from just a toubak that waves at people.

Young women will often do a small knee bend when they greet older men. Though I’m not entirely clear when that should happen because I did it once when I first greeted a bunch of Notables and an Imam here in Kanel and I got lots of giggles from some onlookers. Also, I have had a couple of little girls curtsy to me. This always makes me smile because I know that it is a sign of the utmost respect and it’s cute that they think that they should curtsy to me just because I’m a toubak and a guest. It always brightens my day. Once I had a little girl curtsy and then kiss me on the hand. I almost died laughing. These interactions are a zillion times better than when small children see me coming and either run and hide or burst into tears. That happens on a daily basis. Today actually I met one who was so terrified, screaming, crying and would not look at me so her mom had to take her to the other room!

There are also some other eye contact rules that I’m still unsure of, but I don’t think they apply to me as much because I’m a toubak and people know that I don’t know what they are. Namely that younger men and women will often not look directly at older men in the eye. Instead they sort of gaze next to and down to show respect as they greet.

Something else that I just love seeing and see it constantly is that men of all ages hold hands here and I don’t mean just when they’re greeting. Good friends will walk hand in hand or with their arms around eachother’s waists or shoulders and holding hands at the same time. Groups of them will do this altogether. It’s sweet and the novelty still has not worn off because men in the states just aren’t that touchy with eachother. The downside is that women don’t hold hands nearly as much. I mean they can, but they tend not to.

*Maybe this is one of the reasons that I love my sister Mariata so much (my favorite) because she is so touchy-feely (something that I’m very accustomed to) and will always hold my hand or play with my hair or we’ll lay around with our limbs piled on top of one another. And she hugs! Something almost nobody does and I miss desperately.*

One of the best parts about learning all of these silly greetings is to do it in English with other volunteers. This is an endlessly fun game. Can you imagine going up to a friend or even a total stranger and asking them how they are doing with the mosquitoes? Priceless.

44 comments:

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